10.03.2011
2003 Domaine de la Vougeraie Puligny-Montrachet
2003 Domaine de la Vougeraie Poligny-Montrachet Grand Vin de Bourgogne
From the vineyard: "Cluny Abbey received the land around Puligny in 1095, and the monks developed the vines there. The seigniory was held by the Mypont family, then by the Dukes of Burgundy under Philippe the Hardy, and later by Burgundy nobles."
First of all, how awesome is it to drink wine from land that has been tilled for wine since 1095?!?! This wine is 100% Chardonnay, and is absolutely not for people who think chardonnay was first thought of in California. This chardonnay was aged in French oak casks (from the Allier Forest) for 14 months before being transferred to stainless steel barrels for 4 months. This was bottled in 2005 and there were only 718 bottles produced. (by comparison, Camelot Highlands, one of Kendall Jackson's highest-end chardonnays, produced 9000 bottles of 2008 vintage chard - ps, not a bad CA chard at all)
The pour is a beautiful classic French chardonnay yellow-golden-maize-straw color (darker than your typical chardonnay, but don't judge a wine by its color...); it is just different enough to get your attention if you weren't already intrigued. No legs to speak of at 14 degrees Celsius, but that isn't surprising for a 100% Chardonnay at 13% abv.
The nose is brilliant out of the bottle and into the glass; it is SO easy to smell, and you almost don't want to stop, except that you really want to drink it too. I get major notes of pear and tropical air/mist with a touch of sour lemon/lemon zest. The oak is present but very focused. There is also just a hint of burnt wood/burnt vine at the end of the sniffy-sniff (keep rockin' GaryV). Nothing in this nose is cheapened by excess, everything is in its place and very elegantly presented to the drinker.
The palate opens with a touch of minerality and a little lemon peel. Like the nose, everything is in its place and very tight; the forepalate is inviting and leads you into the midpalate. This is not a sweet chard, it is dry and serious and focused. This is a brilliantly structured white Burgundy! There is a golden apple flavor (not the sweet flavors of apples though), and a mix of a hot grill and fresh fruit (like you let the gas grill get good and hot, and seared some apricots and pear skins and apple skins for a few seconds - that seared fruit emits a flavor that is unique and perfectly balanced into the middle of this wine). The finish is smoky and relatively simple (especially when compared to the fore- and midpalate), but ties the wine together brilliantly. If you couldn't tell, I am running out of compliments for this wine and I am already looking for other Puligny-Montrachet Chardonnay to try as soon as possible.
Rating: 94 - Amazing - Perfect balance of weight, acidity, and flavor!
Retail: $75
This is one of the best wines I have ever had. *Period*
I would recommend this wine to anyone who has had chardonnay and perhaps been less than enamored with what the grape has to offer. I would also recommend this wine to anyone who is to the point of knowing what to expect from their chardonnay and wants to expand their palate to one of the original chardonnay-growing regions of the world.
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